Perfumes and Fragrances

Scent of a Baker
Perfumes

Perfumes - as ancient as baking (is not the best perfume fresh baked bread?) and as captivating as anything on this planet. Here is where you will find some treasured scents of mine and reviews of over classic and contemporary perfumes and fragrances I think are noteworthy. Broad selections in scent are in department stores and drugstores. But more special things, you have to go online to unique, private perfumers, or to places like Sephora, a leading website for scent or www.Aedes.com for their excellent service, sampling program, range of perfumes and sheer knowledge of all they sell or www.Fragrancenet.com (they are just superlative in selection, price and service). Tons of places sell scent – few fragrance sellers really know them and will offer the personalized service Aedes or FragranceNet.com will. No automated email replies – a real person who cares about customer service and fragrance does. Please tell them BetterBaking.Com/Marcy Goldman sent you.

There are tons of new scents out there this year as aromatherapy, smelling good and feeling great, is going mainstream. Despite the plethora of new perfumes, there is an emphasis on ‘sweet florals’ or “Oriental florals’ and many brands smell the same. Sweet florals in the winter are always welcome but the trick is finding the gems. Celebrity scents also rule and again, some are surprisingly exceptional and some are unsurprisingly, uninspiring, created by the whim of a name and brand. Celebs scents are more or less,versus scents created by someone or a company, known for their unique ‘nose’ and desire for a scent. A celeb scent is more about celebrity, marketing teams, and fragrance corporation collaborations that all want to capitalize on scent and the holiday season. This is fine but can lead to the best of and worst of. It also depends if you like the celebrity and want to sport their name in scent. I would be proud to wear something called Audrey (a la Hepburn) but wince at Paris Hilton perfume –even though, the peach laced perfume is rather nice.

Remember that all perfume starts with an idea and a whim to create a special scent – some more so for a big splashy holiday marketing blitz and some more to set the world of scent on its heels. The philosophy behind something like an institution like Chanel, versus celebs scents like Britney Spears’ enterprises or Jennifer Lopez (who actually has some nice scents), versus designers (Ralph Loren, Marc Jacobs, Vera Wang, Baby Phat) versus make-up mavens (Laura Mercier, Origins), versus true perfumers (Guerlain, Patou, Serge Lutens, Jo Malone) versus concept lines (Avon, Victoria’s Secret, L’Occitane and The Body Shop) are vastly different headspaces in fragrance approaches. They each, except for true perfumers with a heritage, can range from extraordinary to terrible and in-between. But think a little bit about what is feeding into the creation of each perfume. That heritage and incentive behind it says something about the final product and what you can expect. Some designers are wonderful at designer and that gift and talent parlays into their forays in scent. Others know clothes or whatever else is their initial endeavor and might not have a gift for scent. That said, most companies are smart enough to hire the best noses in the business and chances are, you might have the expertise of one fine nose or another at the helm of a new perfume that you might otherwise dismiss. If you want sophistication and feminine allure – think French perfume; if you want a bit of warmth, cautious romance, some regality and slightly more conservative perfume, and largely floral – think American (Ester Lauder has some incredible scents – Ester Lauder Beyond Paradise or check out Elizabeth Arden’s Provocative Woman). If you want sheer sexy femininity and romance, and a dash of fun, the Italians (Dolce Gabbana, Armani, Carthusia, et al) rule. For freshness, country garden florals, lavenders and such AND class, it’s (and all this politically incorrect perfume lore is to be taken with a grain of salt) the Brits. If you see a perfumer interviewed and they talk about how they like clean and fresh, chances are, these are not going to be real romantic perfumes. They will be fresh and sparkling but not boudoir. There is something to be said about personality of the perfumer, as much as their fragrance savvy. Like great chefs, who might have all the finest ingredients at hand, perfumers, like chefs, depending on their own taste and sensibilities, create vastly different products. Not to mention, different perfumers choose different qualities of fragrances to work with. Personality figures in the art. Or, if you see a new perfume smacked onto a line of cars or clothes, it can either be exceptional (you never know – Mont Blanc, a pen manufacturer, has some fine perfumes) or horrid (Peugeot? Hmmm). Roots, makes fine sportswear but as for ultra feminine, complex perfumes…well, we are not there yet. I also recommend sites as www.nowsmellthis.com and a site for men, mostly, called www.bottomnotes.com, both excellent sites on scent in terms of design, information and substance.

Remember a few things about scent. Yes, perfume smells different after it settles on you, so wait. Always put perfume on at least 30 minutes before going out. You want to captivate, not overwhelm. Two, although perfume does smell different on everyone, Joy is Joy, Chanel 5 is Chanel 5 and no matter who you are, people can discern those classic scents. My point is – choose scents like choosing a fine wine that will bear your own label. Go further afield, try new scents (for goodness sakes!!!!) and find your signature scent. Nothing is nicer than someone saying, ‘you smell terrific. What IS that?”. If you love something that is popular, chances are it will indeed smell great on you and pick up your spirits but don’t go for the obvious just because everyone says it is a must. Angel is one of the top sellers but I would not recommend it across the board. Yet other scents, like Chanel’s Allure, probably makes everyone smell incredible (It just does; it is if you were stranded on a desert island which perfume would you take with you, perfumes…) and there is a reason behind its popularity. Do seek out some nostalgic scents you wore when you were younger simply because it is the most fun you can imagine and brings back memories – mostly good. Google makes it easy to find them. Dorothy Gray’s Lilac is one I am having trouble finding but Heaven Scent is back and Blue Grass never left. Now if only they would bring back Oh!De London and Love’s Baby Cologne. Still, there is always Jean Nate…..and Chantilly, is it?

www.fragrancenet.com
The Best Perfume Store on the Net
Info@fragrancenet.com

There are a few major things you have to know about online shopping for high end scent on the Internet. You need quality (fresh perfumes, not no name, no vintage brand, old bottles, sample bottles, discontinued and hanging around forever bottles). You need competitive prices, quick, well-priced shipping, and amazing customer service. You also need one more thing: an astounding variety of the most amazing classic, exotic, and unique perfumes no one else has and all in stock. Sound too good to be true? Almost - unless you have discovered www.FragranceNet.com, coincidentally, the only perfume company to advertise in the Sunday New York Times, and also answer each and every email promptly.

This is about the best perfume store on the net I have dealt with. They also stock a splendid assortment of the best skincare products, hair care, men’s colognes and aftershaves, candles and other aromatherapy products. They are consistent, offer superb pricing, huge variety of sizes and formats of any one scent as well as deriviatives you would not know about (e.g. Eden by Cacherel and Eau de Eden – this from a company most people only know for their Anais Anais)

On Ebay, for example, by contrast, you might find a deal here and there but the perfumes are not always packed/shipped properly nor can you verify the freshness of the product. But the best thing about Fragrancenet.com is that they are attentive and stock the most exclusive and novel scents whereas most other places have the common stuff. If you go department store perfume shopping, you will exit smelling like everyone else because the assortments of perfumes are really limited (which is so uninspiring when it comes to perfumes). This means, whatever is ‘in’ at the moment, be it Britney Spears perfume or Baby Phat is what you might end up with. At holiday time of year, you don’t want to smell like the crowd or a department store perfume sample paper! Some brands (which Fragrancenet.com has too) are lovely (Donna Karan. Dolce and Gabbana, Bylvari, Aqua di Parma). But anyone who really wants to go that extra mile and values a true signature scent will truly appreciate Fragrancenet.com for the diverse offerings.

In fact, try browsing the site just to see what is included. You will see all the major players, as well as treasures of imports and vintage perfumes from your youth (but all fresh; newly manufactured with original formulations and/or tweaked formulations from perfume companies that wisely inherit brands of yesteryear and rebirth them).
Recently, we tested famed, Fleurs de Rocailles – the perfume worn in Scent of a Woman. A heady concoction of jasmine, lily of the valley, lilac and other florals, laced with crisp greens and decanted originally in 1933, I don’t think there is a nicer scent that is also so classic. No one makes perfume like an older company as Caron. First, by Van Cleefe and Arpels is another classic that no one seems to know about and it is divine – there is no other word. It is so incredibly romantic and feminine, men will swoon as you walk by. They will follow you to the parking lot in Wal-mart. Don’t believe me? Just try it. Notes of floral black currant, jasmine, narcissus, sandalwood and vanilla are the reason. If nostalgia is your thing (and if you are a baby boomer you know you are), then head towards Dana’s Heaven Vanilla Scent green flower scent with high notes of natural vanilla.There is also the other Heaven Scent by Dana. Around since 1936, this is a heady mix of Oriental flowers and spice. It is memories of first dates and timid romances and youth but suits anyone.

Every woman needs at least one Lily of the Valley perfume that is purely that and the original Coty formula, found in Coty’s Muguet des Bois is sublime. It’s been on the scene since 1941 and for $12.00, it is one of the nicest Muguet fragrances around. There is also Yardley’s or Dior’s Diorissimo but for the price, and sheer freshness, Coty’s version is a steal. For men, I recommend Eau Savage and the exceptional (no matter on which guy), Homme by Dior with its notes of Leather, Iris, Vetiver, Cardamomand Lavende. FragranceNet.com often offers discounts so sign up on their website to be notified and also – if you don’t see it, ask them! They answer email and most times, they will also get you the perfume you want and long for!

Scent of a Baker
Ah...another passion - perfumes, colognes, oils, and potions. Here are some of my favorite discoveries.

For 2009

My picks for 2009 are lean but special. For women, there is Idylle from Guerlain. If you like Sarah Jessica Parker's Lovely, you will adore Idylle. If you don't you probably still will. This ideal perfume catches some of the fresh musk of Lovely but laces it with feminine florals. It is an incredible triumph of a perfume and while new and young, it is destined to be a signature scent for anyone who wears it. Guerlain hasn't had (to me) a real hit in years but this one is out of the ball park.

Feerie by Van Cleef and Arpel is another stunner but choose the Eau de Parfum (perfume) not the Eau de Toilette which is nice but not the same scent at all. Feerie comes in a gorgeous blue bottle with a silver fairy on top. It is a most unusual scent of both berries and citrus (or so it seems) and it is fresh, feminine but unlike anything I've tried in ...well, maybe ever. Like all Van Cleef and Arpel scents, it is upscale and multi-dimensitional - it makes a statement even in its understatement.

Avon gets kudos from me with Bloom, Reese Witherspoon's foray into celebrity scent. A fine actress, decent seeming sort of person, it's not a surprise this is a beautiful, mindful scent of toned down peaches and tuberose and lilies. It is glamourous but not overpowering. A keeper.
www.Avon.com and www.Avon.ca.

www.LovePotionPerfume.com
A very interesting perfume oil company that produces 12 new scents a month.
Try scents (before they retire them) such as Spring Equinox 2007 - like inhaling a fresh cut bouquet of wildflowers on a backdrop of freshly cut grass. It has notes both floral and cool as cucumber and refreshing ice-berg lettuce but with the sweetness of blossoms and buds. To be most specific, however, it has (get ready) Lily of the Valley, Waterlily, Freesia, Hyacinth, Muget, Sweet Pea, Lilac, Lotus and Iris. This is pure goddess stuff. We also tried out Sugared Cream, a vanilla based symphony, Forevermore (quite green and fresh) , Nectar du Printemps (decidedly Lilac and Lily of the Valley) and the exotic (and lucky) Good Fortune Potion. Betrothal is still one of my favorites. Of Betrothal, Love Potions describes: Nearly 20 love attracting, commitment encouraging ingredients in all, such as Daffodil for assuring that your love is returned; Orange Blossom for eternal love and marriage - and a magnet for men; Neroli for sensuality and encouraging a shy lover; Peach for marriage, fertility, happiness and abundance; Sweet Dill for love and protectiveness; Basil for love, fidelity and empathy between lovers, Hyacinth for love, joy and the easing of childbirth, Sweet Pea for lasting pleasure and blissfulness; Pansy to ensure that your lover will yearn to be by your side when separated from you; Lotus, because no man can refuse a woman who wears it, and more... Now in its 21st year, micro-brewed Love Potion Perfumes are all created with a certain purpose (seduction, healing, confidence) and have the most imaginative names (Cleopatra's Blend, Artemis, Sugared Roses, Merlin's Blend, Scandalous Intensions, Dream Lover to name a few) that will overwhelm you in sheer diversity, let alone sheer quantity of perfumes. The 'layered' scents are captivating, featured a line of 'sugared' florals or layered 'musks' (layered vanilla, or with jasmine, etc.). This is the most unusual company in its creativity, quality, and magical mix of aromatherapy, myth, (good) witchery, and seduction - different philosophies all swirled into the total package, combining magical and mystical properties, on a foundation of different folklore, cultures and spiritualities, layered with scent and its abilities to invoke memories. If you don’t want to smell like everyone else, have a lasting perfume (oils last longer) and float in a scented cloud of magic, do browse www.LovePotionPerfume.com.

L'Occitane en Provence- Eau de Toilette- Fleurs de Pecher/ Peach Blossom
www.Loccitane.ca
lovely peach of an eau de toilette has exactly the fragrance that one thinks about when one imagines the scent of a flower as it opens. This light, aroma is sure to remind you that spring is in the air and summer is on its way. Visit www.loccitane.com for more information. Orange blossom is nice but so last year - peach is the new orange - but don't let the hue fool you. this is sweet and floral in a memorable way.

www.Ineke.com

Evening Edged in Gold

This is the newest Ineke perfume, and it is a warm, luxurious, feminine scent tahat opens with bright top notes of plum. then Angels' Trumpet, Midnight Candy and finishes with a cosy base of saffron, deep woods and leather. This is a feminine perfume that is rich but floral at the same time and reminds me of cashmere, white flowers and pearls -but in a perfume. It smells delicious but also very unique.

After My Own Heart Perfume (yes, that’s the name) I found one of the most stunning, unique perfumes, launched by a fellow Canadian, based in San Francisco who makes a lilac (among other scents) based perfume that is simply stunning. It is one of those rare stops-people-in-their-tracks perfumes. Lilac based perfumes (for some reason) are rare and a perfumer who does one well, rarer still and Ineke is one such. The line is creative, unique (the website and packaging are both works of art) and scents range from fanciful, named scents as Balmy Days and Sundays and Chemical Bonding. After My Own Heart is an instant and Ineke also has a superb guy’s perfume/aftershave called Derring-Do which is a masculine, fresh study in green tea and lime notes. Ineke is one of the most romantic of new perfumers, and uses sublime cocktails of essential oils and quality fragrance oils and extracts. Simply a gorgeous line of exceptional perfumes.

Viktor and Rolf
Flower Bomb Extreme, Flower Bomb Body Lotion , Viktor and Rolf’s First Guy Perfume – Viktor and Rolf “Antidote’ The design team who created one of my favorite perfumes, Flower Bomb has introduced a new and more intense version, called Flower Bomb Extreme. No samples (nor perfume) are available but check Ebay and Holt’s in Canada and Sak’s or Bergdof’s in the States or contact Victor and Rolf website. They also newly launched a body cream version of their original Flower Bomb. Viktor and Rolf for him scores kudos in their newest perfume, Antidote. This is the much-anticipated aftershave/man’s scent and it is available at Bloomingdale’s. Antidote is a magic potion, much like ‘a rare flower pinned to the lapel of a tuxedo jacket; it is an expression of classic masculine elegance with a flair of sophistication. A rich, woody-oriental, Antidote opens with a refreshing burst of mint leaves and Italian bergamot, sparkles with spicy facets of black pepper and cinnamon and yields to the warmth of sandalwood, ebony and patchouli.” . If you are looking for the newest, most sophisticated yet bold scent for a man, this is one not to be missed. Besides, what other men’s cologne has its own song created by Rufus Wainwright?

Ralph Lauren’s Polo Double Black
For something warmly masculine, in leather scent with perks of fruit, espresso and woody notes, nothing beats the fresh oriental of Ralph Lauren’s Polo Double Black. This is sleek, multi dimensional, sophisticated scent that hits notes that re both fresh and countrified as well Perfumes in Passing

Of the perfume establishment, here are some recommendations:

Guerlain’s perfumes (one of the last companies still using all natural ingredients)
Tea Rose (The Perfumer’s Workshop – if you cannot find it anywhere, then try Ebay)
Annick Goutal (you can’t go wrong with this line – exquisite)
Intrusion by Oscar de la Renta
Romance by Ralph Laurent
Kielh’s Cucumber Oil Spray.

Stella (as in Paul McCartney’s designer daughter Stella) –which is nice but lack dimensions - i.e. pleasant enough if you like a light scent of fresh cut flowers.

Jo Malone’s bright, sparkly perfumes are for modern, sporty types but her Fruits de Forest is a touch more romantic.

Marc Jacob by Marc Jacob is a luscious romantic gardenia scent few can resist (it is selling off the shelves online and in stores),

Dolce and Gabbana get my nod in two of their scents: Light Blue, which is appealingly apple-ish, and Sicily which is a sensuous, sunny scent of honey, roses and Bergamot.

Michael Kors is doing well, providing you have the presence to wear an intensely Tuberose bouquet. It is sensual as all get out but you have to be able to carry it off. All these scents are nationally available in major department stores, or online, at the websites of their creators. For the more standard scents, you can try www.Sephora.com for online shopping. For more unusual or cutting edge scents as well as personal service, bar none and the place to find the more exotic, upscale, imports, and spectacular fragrance, I rely onwww.Aedes.com and manager Karl Bradl (more on Aedes below) to find them. Last, if a limited edition Lalique flacon of perfume, along with an exquisite perfume intrigues, then go to www.lalique where you will find stunning perfume bottles and scents to match. Their Le Baiser (the kiss) is one of my favorites but this company has created signature fragrances that if not for their limited editions, would become classics.

Green Tea perfume by Elizabeth Arden is a great version of green tea, as is L’Occitane’s Green Tea and for those who want feminine in a green tea scent Byvgari’s offers two choices: Cologne au The Vert as well as a more intense version of same: Extreme. Bvlgari, who is also a fashion and watch company par excellence, does green tea with more subtly but it is a simply lovely bouquet of a most uplifting trendy fragrance of the year.

Body Shop’s Vanilla Cologne Spray or their Vanilla Oil is a good option – especially if you combine it with something else

www.aedes.com
This is an exceptional store in New York that is perfume exclusives Heaven. If it is rare, unique, special, exotic, exclusive, or upscale or simply not-what-they-are-all-showing-this-year (and yet, still offers some of those too), Aedes is where you can find it. It is also totally dedicated to personal service and attention, even by email – which is a must in perfume shopping, online and otherwise. What is also great about this perfume store is that they will graciously send you 7 perfume samples for $12.50 (handling and shipping charge) for you to try before you buy. If you contact then, please send BetterBaking.com sent you. Soon, Aedes will also be carrying Serge Lutens, from France. I tested the line and found them extraordinarily unique, light, feminine and acutely well-crafted perfumes. There are so many scents available from Aedes, as well as perfumer’s specialty candles. I suggest you email for their holiday catalogue (which is a precious and sought after as the Sports Illustrated Swimsuit issue) but also let them know what scents appeal (fruity, fresh, floral, warm, spicy) so they can guide you towards choosing a scent or the 7 perfume samples. Some of Aedes customers include Donatella Versace, Dolce and Gabbana, Georgia Armani, and hopefully, you.

Angel continues to do Thiery Mugler proud. I find it pleasant but contains a strange note that is jarring. Nonetheless, it continues to perform well –it is the Shalimar of 2004. This year, Mugler is hyping Alien. Speaking of which – for a great deal of the time, the packaging of a perfume says a lot about its content (with the exception of FlowerBomb which is literal, versus thematic packaging).

Alien looks….alien –which means it is modern and youth-oriented (although in scent there is no such thing – never believe any perfume writer that tells you can and cannot wear this or that over a certain age. Just don’t wear bad scents at any age). But a beautiful, luxurious package speaks of feminine mystique and a classic scent. A very modern bottle or funky one suggests a modern scent or a fresh and dynamic one. The decanter is an indication of what lies within. Chanel, as you know, is always classically Chanel aka French minimalist, which is what I love about Chanel. But I also love the creativity behind the dramatic look of new entries in fragrance.

Premier Jour by Nina Ricci
Gorgeous. Lily of the Valley, other white flowers for the most feminine scent around. A bouquet that is a breath of springtime, whatever the season.

Serge Lutens (whole line)
Orange Blossom by Serge Lutens is getting the press but almost anything in the SL line will serve you well. There is an amazing complexity to each Serge Lutens perfume and they range from woody, to floral and sweet but the expertise is definitely with their woody or sweet scents, versus the florals. For true sophistication, this line cannot be beat. Our friends at www.Aedes.com in New York has the full line. These are best described as sultry perfumes and their amber, orange flowers, and various vanilla based perfumes are the top sellers.

Love in White, Creed The newest from Creed is light but memorable, ultra feminine (Audrey Hepburn or Grace Kelly come to mind) and one of those multi-dimensional approaches to a bouquet of white flowers. This is for a bride to be or a true femme fatale/goddess. Sure to be a classic unless expense out prices it – but then, it’s Creed so……

Iris by Aqua de Parma Mostly known for their men’s scents, Iris by Aqua de Parma is on my new year’s wish list. It is distinct, fresh but sweet and wonderfully pure. Great alone or mixed with a bit of Diorissmo (lily of the valley).

Eau De Miel by www.loccitane.com This is heavenly – it is sweet with honey but light with a heady dash of jasmine. It makes you smell ‘clean and fresh’ and stops everyone, male and female, in their tracks. In fact, I should label many perfumes by a SETT rating (Stops Everyone in Their Tracks). This has SETT.

Original Musk Oil Vanilla Oil www.Kiehls.com A classic from Kiehls, I really prefer this for men but mixed with your own floral oils or as is, this is a riveting scent for those that like musk. It is not cloying; it is rather je ne sais quoi – more of a scent magnet that gives the impression to those around you that is your own ‘scent’. A phenomes sort of scent – the cologne of the same name from Kiehl is a great gift for men who might not use the oil version of Musk. Kiehls Vanilla Oil on the other hand, is great mixed with Musk, on its own, or mixed with almost anything else. Kiehls’ Vanilla Oil is a wonderful sweet basenote to other perfumes you might wear. I wear a touch of vanilla oil, touch of rose fragrance oils (check my sources for fragrance oil suppliers) with Bylvari’s green tea fragrance or Elizabeth Arden’s Green Tea. Awesome.

Armani Mania by Giorgio Armani Billed as an aromatic floral, this is close to a best-of-2005 in my book. Romantic, luxurious, boldly female but sophisticated.

Aqua di Gio by Giorgio Armani
The cologne for men, for 2005. 5 tango partners can’t be wrong. This is one of the best male scents on the market. My sense is that Italian men are comfortable being guys and an Italian designer is totally at home, creating a super male scent in a very bold way. If anything else, if you are a guy, just make a commitment NOT to wear Old Spice or use Irish Spring. Ever again. Better not to shower and not to use Aqua di Gio but just avoid the menthol/pine/oakmoss overdoes from now on in. Please.

Weekend by Burberry
Warm, up market, feminine, elegant but classy in an old world, old school monied way. A good one for anyone’s repertoire and when you want sweet but not cloying.

Escada Fruity, exotic – full of panache – a great daily wear perfume that picks you up but doesn’t distract or seduce …which means it is a great work perfume – feminine but not double entendres perfume. Love by Moschino I am not a citrus perfume lover but this orangey, happy fragrance makes me feel good each time I try it out. It is simply up and orange and unexpectedly special.

Lovely by Sarah Jessica Parker, Lancaster Group I really wanted to love this perfume because I admire the actress who created it. This is a multi dimensional, truly complex scent but it is hardly the feminine cloud its packaging and spokesperson makes it seem. It smells a bit like the earth of a garden in springtime OR that odd scent of old fur coats and mothballs, when you wander into your grandmother’s hall closet. It IS well crafted and it IS oddly, really perfect for men. I could fall for a guy who wore something like Lovely. SJP wanted a fresh, patchouli based perfume that is almost like ‘nice sweat’ …This is admirable because it is intelligent, upscale, simply ‘well-done’ perfume. It is just not anything like the packaging or the usual. Actually, you won’t smell like anyone else if you opt for Lovely. You SHOULD try this one for yourself. Nothing else on the market is out there. But here's the kicker. I wanted to love Lovely. I didn't and then one day I did. And still do. Check out the newest SJP scent Covet. It is more frisky but also exceptional. But just a dab will do you.

Baby Phat Surprisingly nice – fruit, florals, and a real cachet – a sleeper for 2005.

Bylvari Rose Extreme
The design company that is known for every degree of green tea perfume for women, men and even babies, has a rose perfume. It is different, delightful (while not for everyone) and a rose bower, in a subtle way. If you are new to rose scents, this might be one pick.

Les Perfums de Rosine
A full line of rose perfumes, available at www.aedes.com - this offers many combinations of rose perfume possibilities.

Heart by Clinique Light, fun, sweet, floral – bit of a chai tea thing going on – slightly creamy scent –this is stirring and welcome at the same time. Safe but sexy.  Or rather, sexy but safe.

Cathusia’s Il Profumi di Capri.

Aedes is one of the first in America to carry one scent in particular that I have fallen in love with. It is Cathusia’s Il Profumi di Capri. Italian made of all pure ingredients, based on formulae that dates back to methods first utilized by the monks of the Carthusian Monastery of St. Giamoco. The hallmark fragrance Fiori di Capri was inspired by the flowers that celebrated the arrival of Queen Giovanna d’Angio in 1380. In 1948, the old perfume recipes the monastery were revealed (by permission of the Pope, no less) to a chemist of Torino who created the Carthusia perfumery/laboratory. More information is at www.carthusia.com. There are a few perfumes available but Fiori di Capri is a perfume for angels and goddesses. It is light and floral and almost a whisper more than a perfume. The main notes are Lily of the Valley, Wild Carnation blended with sandalwood, oak moss and ylang ylang. It comes in a modern version of the old-style, glamorous perfume bottles of old, in a crystal clear square bottle with a fabric atomizer bulb attached. The line also includes Pot-Pourri, Home Fragrance Sticks, Room and Linen Spray and other perfumes such as Capri (fig leaf and tea leaves), Aria di Capri (lemons, oranges, and notes of peach and mimosa), Caprissimo, Gelsomini and Cathusia Lady, each floral symphonies that are famous among perfume aficionados, and each more feminine and unique than the other. Aria di Capri is coming in the new year.

Demeter
Freedom Marketing Group
Information 516-487-5187
To Order: www.fashion-planet.com/shopping/demeter/demeterhome.html

What do you say about a line of colognes, candles, and room sprays that has everything from delicate florals like Wet Garden, Lilac and Freesia to spirited fragrances such as Gin and Tonic, Cosmopolitan, manly notions like This Is Not A Pipe, trendy scents like Sticky Pudding or Tira Misu, fun scents like Dirt, Paperback, and Laundromat, and a host of food scents (for room or personal use) such as Sugar Cookie, Cinnamon Toast, Condensed Milk, Birthday Cake, and seasonal sensations such as Cranberry, Croquembuche, Fruit Cake, and Scottish Shortbread? You just buy a slew! I use Demeter for personal fragrance (and combine a few scents at once), or, use their foodier scents for room spray, stationary, linens, greeting cards, cookbooks, and to scent up gifts from the kitchen (the note cards!). This company has been newly resurrected in the last year or so and plan on seeing more novel, quality fragrances and concepts, like no where else. This is an exciting line that you will see more of soon – as it is being relaunched. They also have candles, and oversized bars of soaps in companion scents. Demeter’s scents are all at once quality, fun, novel, intriguing, and different than just about anything else in the scent marketplace. As soon as word gets out and their new website is up, you will also see more new things (Try Brownie scent for all your Valentine’s Day greetings). Keep you posted.

In love with Lilacs….

As it takes a lot of lilacs to make pure lilac perfume, you usually find synthetic lilac or a touch of lilac essence blended into other perfumes. The Body Shop used to make a rather nice lilac oil and Caswell Massey has a signature Lilac scent but none comes closer, and is more pure than Highland Lilac from a unique apothecary and gift store, Parkleigh of Rochester, New York. Among a range of specialty products in cosmetics (they carry the full range of The Thyme products and Diptyque candles among other items), Parkleigh is renown for its Lilac perfume. Bushels and bushels of fresh lilacs, grown in the area, are pressed into this perfume, which does smell as though you have bathed in a lilac bower. Five varieties of lilacs are used to make this scent and it is gorgeous. (and so is the gift box). This is for lilac lovers or a special gift for someone who enjoys single floral scents.

Parkleigh is the a supplier or try
www.highlandlilac.com.
This is a beautiful, all natural, lilac perfume.
800-333-0627

Parkleigh of Rochester, New York
www.parkleigh.com www.highlandlilac.com

Stacked Style scented perfume oils made the A list whenever their products appear in Style magazine. A packet box of Scentarettes, houses their signature oils – fresh and floral scents you can wear as perfumes. body oil, or moisturizing oil. Try Prelude Magnolia, jasmine, rose, apricot and wild strawberry), Sorbet (pear, green apple, honeydew, melon, peaches and white musk), Duet (fresh florals and citrus), or Memoir (a romantic mix of gardenia, tuberose, Casablanca, and lily). These are just different from the pack of perfumes, and wicked cool because they are affordable, subtle but feminine fragrances and are wonderfully portable. They are perfect for those who want something different, young, or fresh or for women wanting an option from 'perfume house' fragrances. New scents include Harmony, Dew, Luau, and Blossom. The whole line has been adopted by the Hollywood set. Look out for their soy based candle lien too. From founder Linda Sirvican, order from www.stackedstyle.com

www.aftelier.com

Mandy Aftel is a perfumer that is a rarity – she only works with all natural, essential oils to create her original, masterpiece perfumes. She teaches perfumer making, has written a phenomenal book on the subject but is renown for her custom perfumes – for those wanting a perfume brand that no one else has. She offers a few exotic ready-to-wear perfumes: Parfum De Maroc, that is a sultry concoction of Bulgarian rose, myrrh, and bitter orange, a Citrus Perfume that is a freshly fruity/floral combination, and Blond Tabac for men or women, among other scents and products but her forte is custom perfume making, using only essential oils and other natural ingredients (no lab synthetics for her!) and she works closely with clients to create something special. Madonna is a noted client. Aftel, like Aedes in New York is the sort of perfume source you can pass on your preferences to in order to get a fix on what would work for you. Aftel is also noted for her beautiful perfume bottles which are almost as beautiful as her signature perfumes. Her book on perfume is one of the best every written - it is only as informative as it is wonderfully well written.

www.DSHperfumes.com
www.artscent.com
800 551-0701

I am always on the look-out for new, exciting and home grown perfumes. Parfums des Beaux Arts, www.DHSperfumes.com, a creation of perfumier and aromatherapist, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz is of the these incredible finds. The once co-owner of the Boston perfumery, Essence, Spencer Hurwitz has really bloomed in her own online perfumery where she showcases her entire perfume collection, as well as essential oil fragrance combinations (versus the perfumes which use fragrance as well as essential oils). There are several lines of perfumes at DSH, all fragrance-thematic, including DHS New Creations Artisan Perfumes, Perfection Connoisseur Fragrances, Passion Flour Poem Perfumes, Your Perfect Day Wedding Fragrances and Parfums des Beaux Arts, which are also referred to as Limited Editions. Conveniently, all perfumes clearly described at the DSH website so there is no doubt as to which is which or which might appeal to you. I tried some incredible selections: April Be Spring, Italian Journey No. 3, La Rose Fleurette and Les Rouges, as well as Cassis Essence. DHS perfumes are all clearly profiled at the website. What they all have in common is extraordinarily, glamorous packaging of a by-gone era and perfumes that each are incredibly unique – ranging from girlish (in the eternal girlish way), to feminine, or simply sultry and sophisticated. Each one is quite different from each and more so, from the usual perfume lines you find in any department store. These are ‘crafted’ scents for the discerning perfume hound – they are notably lush and luxurious and each, is a bouquet it’s own right. We especially liked La Rose Fleurette (sensuous and lush), Giardini Segreti (light, clean, sophisticated but romantic floral), Poire (subtle fruit, floral and touch of spice), and Fleur d’Oranger (heavenly). For foodies, there is also a Piment and Chocolate. We also recommend any one of their Tea Perfumes (we are partial to The Vert, or Green Tea) or any one of their trio of heady Rose scents. Giardini Segreti is only one of their triumpherate of “Italian Journey’ Perfumes. Prices range but DSH offers terrific value in their sampler kits so you can order a few in special vials (and generous vials at that) to figure out what you might like to re-order.

www.loccitane.com
This company, noted for is soaps, incense, lotions, and balms, has a few colognes that are bright and appealing –including a Vanilla Cologne and a crisp Green Tea cologne. Their newest line (and check out their incense mentioned above) is a heady salute to Feuilles d’Oranger and it is a scent that is sunnily orange and sweet but floral. It comes in body lotion, perfume, and soaps. L’Occitane also has a remarkable men’s line of after shave products, colognes, face and lip balms, and all manner of manly care products that are crisp, clean but retain a nice Gallic sophistication. This is a wonderful line that you will return to for their new items and to stock up on ones you become devoted to. A tin of their honey incense, Green Tea Cologne, and Feuilles d’Orange Shower Gel, and some Creamy Honey Lip balm makes a divine selection of gifts to introduce you to L’Occitane.

For more on scent, enjoy my other features:

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